Starting with my arrival at the airport, I wanted access to some of my old wardrobe. The women here turn the looks up - there's very tailored and sophisticated, and there's really cute and funky, but I feel like I'm the only one rocking the "one step up from workout wear." Don't worry, America, I am not yet wearing a matching track suit. But sometimes I feel like I am. And riding the lightrail is like one long hair product commercial; Turkish women have some thick and lustrous hair. Except when they bleach it light blond (not kidding and not a good look), and then have thick yellow hair with black roots. Some of us just weren't meant to go lighter, and I include myself in that category.
Enough of such frivolity, let me regale you tales of Istanbul's past. I've hit up a small smattering up the sights so far, but oddly, one of my favorites was the underground cistern tucked just by the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Built by the Emperor Justinian (his name crops up a lot around this area of town as he also commissioned the Hagia Sophia) in the 6th century AD, it covers an area about the size of two football fields and could hold 27 million gallons of water. Somewhere along the way, the pipes that supplied it became clogged and people forgot that it even existed though some garden wells accessed its water. I don't know when it was rediscovered, but it was certainly before "From Russia With Love" was filmed because a scene was apparantly shot here for it. The vaulted ceiling is supported by a variety of Roman columns which were repurposed for this job - there are over 300 columns of various styles. Nowadays they play calming flute music on a sound system, so it's more peaceful than eerie, but different music is really all you'd need to change the effect. There are also fish living in the few inches of water that aren't pumped out, mostly goldfish looking things of various size. People must feed them because I don't see any other way for a food chain to exist down there.
I was already a fan of Turkish food before arrival, but I now have a new favorite beverage - ayran. I had it by accident this morning. I thought I was buying yogurt at the grocery store, but it was so watery I figured I should drink it rather than make a mess with a spoon. Turns out aryan is yogurt mixed with water and a dash of salt, and, people, it's damn refreshing! I am a devoted fan of all things yogurt - why aren't we selling this all over the States? This stuff is good and good for you. I liked it so much I had it again at lunch, where it was my favorite thing. Try as I might, kofte (mystery meatballs) is nothing like yogurt for me. But I have been enjoying the street food: roasted chestnuts, pretzel-like things called simit (a ring of dough dipped in grape molasses and sesame seeds, then baked - delicious!), and something like a churro, but sweeter, like it was soaked in sugar syrup, which was a little too sweet for me. And I still have a few days to taste more before I board another night bus for Cappadoccia. I'm not sure if I'm spelling it right but the locals pronounce it kap-uh-dok-ee-uh. My past English professors would roll over at my attempt at phonetic spelling, but I think it'll work for you.
I'm really behind on my email, so to everyone who has been emailing me:
1. Thank you, I am really glad to hear from you
2. I will reply back soon
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